Almost 15 years old, Penk’s established its place in Queen’s Park long before the area’s gentrification. Now there are many excellent spots for posh nosh & it seems Penk’s might not be able to keep up. Half-hearted attempts to transform the place with a new bar area have failed to ignite fires, though it’s a lack of direction in the kitchen that’s most noticeable – as witnessed in a menu that trots around the globe like a BA frequent flyer. Sharing platters (Asian, Med or seafood) are replete with uninspired deep-fried morsels, while main courses include a thoroughly old-hat chicken breast with dauphinoise, bacon & mushrooms, & ‘luxury’ fishcakes that don’t live up to their moniker. The wine list is good, but otherwise Penk’s needs to pull up its socks.
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