On grimy Queensbridge Road, LMNT is a soi-disant ‘shrine to extravagance’. Like a pantomime version of the British Museum with a crazy Greco-Roman-Egyptian design scheme (complete with a giant urn you can dine in, & a sphinx fireplace), it is wild, wacky, weird &… rather wonderful. The magic works better by night, when the lighting’s down & you’re a glass of house wine to the good, although lunch has its virtues, too – namely, a pound off starters & two off mains. Starters (£3.75 at lunch, £4.75 at dinner) could be fishcake with watercress & aïoli, or cured salmon tartare with cracked wheat salad. Mains (all £8.95/£10.95) might be roast cod with curried Puy lentils, or butternut squash, sage & Stilton risotto, while sticky toffee pudding heads the dessert list. Not exactly sophisticated, but heaven for students, interns & cheap dates.
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