Right at the throbbing heart of the action, Bar Soho scores highly on ‘location, location, location’, although this particular house might not be up Phil & Kirstie’s street. Rammed to the rafters as the evening builds to an Old Compton Street crescendo, it’s a mix of tourists & EastEnders tributes – more Costa Bianca than Costa Smeralda. Cocktails cost a lot: £7 is steep for a flat cosmopolitan, margarita or a classic martini built on Gordon’s gin. If screaming orgasm & apple struddle (Absolut vanilla, Sourz apple & cinnamon sprinkle) are your idea of sophistication, dive in & groove to hairbrush anthems until late. To nibble, US diner/Asian street market/wedding-buffet staples are bang on target. Be warned: drinks & food are occasionally garnished with a slice of brusque attitude at peak periods.
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