During the afternoon lull, this Victorian boozer looks like your standard gastropub – all stripped wood, leather sofas and chalkboards. Yet hang around until early evening and the place transforms, as hordes of young media types flock to their drinking venue of choice. While the standing-room-only vibe is much of the appeal (especially when the weather's good enough to mingle out front), the kitchen also does a solid turn in Mediterranean-influenced Brit grub – perhaps Jerusalem artichoke soup with truffle oil followed by grilled sea bream with roast fennel and tapenade or onglet steak with chips and béarnaise sauce. For afters, sticky toffee pudding vies with ‘pressed' chocolate cake. International bottled beers go down well with the locals and daily wines are chalked up on the board, with a handful available by the glass for under a fiver.
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