It may be off the main drag & it’s ‘often overlooked’, but this low-key conversion of an old pub is well worth the short walk from Tower Hill. What it offers is a cosmopolitan mix of zesty Californian flavours, Asian influences & a few Mediterranean nuances in a setting that is still essentially East End. Menus change with the seasons, but you might open the show with lightly smoked Chilean halibut, pickled red onion, fennel & grapefruit accompanied by a baby leaf salad & lemon dressing before sampling a main course of pan-fried sea bass with soubise of potato, fennel & spring onion ‘petals’ & fresh herb butter sauce. Rosemary Lane’s ‘excellent’ food is complemented by helpful service & a short, Francophile wine list with plenty of sub-£30 choice.
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