‘Innovative, contemporary and stylish' neatly sums up the all-round appeal of this highly regarded Indian, which delivers consistently excellent food based on ‘adventurous ingredients and unusual combinations'. The dramatic interior with its floor-to-ceiling glass entrance, American walnut panelling and intricate kalamkari textiles is matched by a modern menu that's strong on seafood and game. Seared mackerel might be paired with a palate-cleansing salsa of green apple and fresh coriander, while clove-smoked buffalo receives a Rajasthani-spiced masala sauce. Regular festival menus introduce new dishes, and desserts are exotic riffs on the French classics – think mango brûlée or pineapple tarte Tatin. Suggested food and drink pairings are worth following (perhaps a Meantime Pale Ale with soft-shell-crab curry), and Babur's Sunday buffet is ‘the best around', says one Indian fan (‘born and bred in Yorkshire').
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