While the star-watching opportunities may be greater elsewhere, Umu’s ornately creative, super-premium brand of Japanese cooking would compete for attention alongside even the hottest A-listers.
Forget fusion, this is Kyoto-inspired modernism – a blend of cutting-edge brilliance with last-word classics. Contrast the pure whimsy of foie-gras custard, brown crab & ginger jelly with
plates of buttery salmon sashimi bathed in cold smoke beneath a glass cloche, or the unadulterated luxury of marbled Wagyu slivers beside a white-hot plinth of Himalayan rock salt for
self-administered cooking. The array of sublime sushi also mixes high levels of finesse with the very best produce – witness morsels of red mullet with bottarga, scorched tuna with piquillo
peppers, or filo cups of crab & mango. Be warned: you can’t do Umu on the cheap, so for best value, order the £95 kaiseki menu, grab a seat at the sushi counter & soak up the unparalleled
culinary craftsmanship.
WINE LIST: The list here is very strong on Champagne & sparkling wine, & offers a large range of interesting non-vintage & vintage cuvées, as well as a well-thought-out selection
from Alsace & white Burgundy. Quirky touches such as a red wine from Japan stop it from being a generic Mayfair list. BEST BUY WHITE 2006 Weingut Stadt Krems, Grüner Veltliner,
Lössterrassen, Austria, £40. BEST BUY RED 2003 M Chapoutier, Les Deschants, Saint Joseph, Rhône Valley, France, £50.
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