Le Vacherin

Chef Malcolm John now has a stable of five restaurants, but this sleek thoroughbred remains the front runner. In essence, it’s a civilised bistro, recently refurbished in subtle tones with leather banquettes, shiny wooden flooring & smartly dressed tables; walls display classic French prints, & Malcolm’s tantalising cooking is similarly Gallic – though his approach is fresh & modern. Menus are now fixed-price, with prime ingredients shining in starters such as marinated octopus with razor clams & crab vinaigrette, or Bayonne ham with Roquefort & pear. Main courses maintain the interest: confit pork cheek arrives with choucroûte & Granny Smith purée; John Dory is dressed with samphire & Seville orange butter. To finish, spoil yourself with cinnamon doughnuts accompanied by apple & Calvados sorbet. The French wine list offers plenty by the carafe & glass.