Judging by its bulging reservations book, you’d think Roka was still enjoying a post-launch honeymoon – not moving into its eighth year as a diamond on Charlotte Street. ‘I couldn’t believe how
good I felt,’ admitted one fan who loved the warm buzz around the robata grill, the grainy wood surfaces & the well-drilled professionalism of the outfit. Above all, however, Roka scores with
its truly stunning food. Those with resilience to ‘hyperventilating’ prices might appreciate the startling marriage of tuna tartare with oscietra caviar & quail’s egg yolk, the fabulously zingy
sea-bass sashimi dressed with yuzu, white miso & chilli, or perfectly cooked slices of Wagyu beef with exotic mushrooms & a full-flavoured wasabi & ponzu sauce. Meanwhile, rock shrimp
tempura or a comforting risotto-esque hotpot loaded with king crab should satisfy the wallet watchers. For once the hype is more than justified, & punters have the bonus of drinks in the funky
Shochu Lounge below stairs. ‘Definitely a great show.’
WINE LIST: Another extensive saké offering from the owners of Zuma, with clear, informative descriptions of each one. Otherwise, there are many international wines to choose from – all
classified by style – from ‘clean & mineral’ to ‘rich & spicy’, as well as a sommelier selection & reserve collection. BEST BUY WHITE 2009 Abbazia di Novacella, Kerner, Alto
Adige, Italy, £45. BEST BUY RED 2008 Mastrojanni, Rosso di Montalcino, Tuscany, Italy, £50.
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