Comparisons with elder sibling Zuma are obvious, but telling. Where the Knightsbridge big hitter is self-consciously glitzy, Roka is rated by readers for being more laid-back & ‘better value’.
Its use of stylish natural materials lends a contemporary, Zen-like tone to proceedings. The kitchen is known for its delicate take on traditional cuisine – witness dainty beef, ginger & sesame
dumplings, or the clean-cut flavours of yellowtail tartare with chilli & ginger. ‘Healthy’ specialities from the centrepiece robata grill are the real stars, & are continuously basted for
extra intensity of flavour: think crisp-skinned quail marinated in plum wine & red miso, or juicy Korean-spiced lamb cutlets. ‘Knowledgeable staff’ will happily guide you through specials such
as rolled beef tataki with earthy truffle shavings. Take care, though: you could end up ‘hammering the wallet’. The pulsating atmosphere is a big plus, & the party continues in Shochu, the
basement bar (see separate review).
Chef: Rainer Becker
Rainer Becker's hyper-trendy Zuma was a truly cosmopolitan affair when it opened in 2002: a German chef with an Indian business partner selling Japanese food to London diners. Becker began his career working in Germany's finest restaurants, before touring the world with Hyatt hotels. He arrived in London via Sydney & Tokyo, where he spent six years immersed in local cuisine & culture. After launching the Rib Room at London's Hyatt Carlton Tower (now the Jumeirah Carlton Tower), he branched out on his own in 2002 with Zuma, following it up two years later with Roka. Meanwhile, Zuma is establishing itself as a global brand, with openings in Hong Kong, Dubai & Istanbul.
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