Rasoi Vineet Bhatia

You have to ring on the doorbell to gain admission to this swanky townhouse, which offers an experience that’s a cross between refined restaurant & swish dinner party. Tables are scattered through two rooms characterised by warm tones & pretty ornaments, but it’s chef Vineet Bhatia’s cooking that takes the limelight. Having earned the restaurant a Michelin star shortly after opening in 2006, his ability to merge flavours & textures with sound cooking techniques is quite remarkable. Top creations include a wonderful crab platter featuring a southern Indian masala crab cake, crab chutney & crab & corn samosa & tandoori lamb chops with masala mash & creamy black lentils. The dessert platter is the best way to try a number of sweets & the menu gourmand a chance to sample it all. Given that the place is family-run, service more than warrants its 12.5% but prices are steep so expect a large bill.

Wine List: Not as innovative as some of the other top-notch Indian restaurants, this list is still very good, with a bias towards the classics of the Old World. A small range by the glass is compensated by an extensive selection of halves. The list design does little to help with the food & wine matching, so be sure to quiz the sommelier. Best Buy White 2005 Weingut Tesch, Riesling Karthauser Spatlese Trocken, Nahe, Germany, £30. Best Buy Red 2004 Silver Selection, Massaya, Bekaa Valley, Lebanon, £30.