Dressed up to the nines with swish white leather and chrome surfaces, this swanky outpost of Oxfordshire's Crazy Bear seldom elicits a neutral response: some revel in the glamour of the shadowy dining room; others feel the whole thing is a bit tacky. At least the kitchen offers something for everyone, with a showboating pan-Asian menu that covers a lot of ground: ‘beautiful' dim sum, sushi and sashimi appear on the starting grid alongside the likes of lotus root tempura or chicken in pandan leaves, for example. The menu also trumpets produce from the owners' Oxfordshire farm (slow-roasted Old Spot pork belly with gai lan, for example), although wallet-busting Australian abalone in ‘royal supreme stock' makes no such local claims. After all that razzamatazz, desserts play it straight with cheesecakes, sorbets and trifles.
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