Whether it’s Johnny Depp fresh from a Leicester Square premiere or X Factor judges recovering from a nail-biting deadlock, C London is the go-to diner for A-list celebrities. If that conjures up giddy images of beau-monde sophistication, think again: this is fundamentally a very expensive version of an old-school Italian, catering to the undemanding tastes of the international super-rich. There’s a ‘Dubai does art-deco’ feel to the dining room with its high-gloss woods, mirrors and marble, while dapper waiters are mostly past the first flush of youth. If you can stomach the excruciating prices, the kitchen’s very generous renditions of risotto primavera, veal milanese (£41.10) and calf’s liver veneziana are competently done, and there’s a treat to finish in the form of ice cream whipped tableside. Italy leads the wine list, with little under £50.
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