It’s all about the setting at this outpost of the Peyton & Byrne group – beguiling vistas of St James’s Park, trickling fountains, pretty flowerbeds and all. The Swiss chalet exterior doesn’t scream refinement, but the kitchen puts its faith in carefully sourced British produce for a stoutly reliable menu of wholesome dishes. Ignore the pre-packed sarnies and takeaway snacks in the touristy cafeteria, and home in on a salad of black pudding, ham hock, dandelions and a Scotch quail’s egg (London’s answer to lyonnaise) or whole mackerel perched on fennel salad and samphire. To finish, knickerbocker glory gets an afternoon-tea makeover with clotted cream and strawberry sorbet. There’s also a new outdoor bar (open until 11pm), where you can sip this season’s signature mixes such as crabapple sour or nettle gimlet, along with craft beers, artisan ciders and vino.
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