It’s all about the setting at this outpost of the Peyton & Byrne group – beguiling vistas of St James’s Park, trickling fountains, pretty flowerbeds & all. The Swiss chalet exterior doesn’t scream refinement, but the kitchen puts its faith in carefully sourced British produce for a stoutly reliable menu of wholesome dishes. Ignore the pre-packed sarnies & takeaway snacks in the touristy cafeteria, & home in on a salad of black pudding, ham hock, dandelions & a Scotch quail’s egg (London’s answer to Lyonnaise), or whole mackerel perched on fennel salad & samphire. To finish, knickerbocker glory gets an afternoon-tea makeover with clotted cream & strawberry sorbet. Seats on the wooden terrace are at a premium & the beer selection is much improved from last year, though ‘non-responsive’ service certainly isn’t.
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