‘Always exciting’, Yauatcha still receives the odd drubbing for unhelpful service & for the way it ‘crams in diners’, but most readers just love the sexy atmosphere & the bustle. Top-drawer dim sum, fine teas, famously good cakes & luscious crossover desserts ensure its status never slips & the ‘swanky’ interiors continue to seduce: ‘hip’ at street level, with blue lighting & little grey armchairs; ‘nightclubby’ downstairs, thanks to exposed brickwork, sultry illumination & faux candles in niches. A chic new bar has created a third space for pre-nosh cocktails, nibbles or digestifs – which may ease the pain of high-speed table turning. Top calls are baked venison puffs & ‘dreamy’ blue swimmer crab sui mai, & the roster of mains has expanded – we loved the steamed prawns with vermicelli in black-bean sauce. Also check out the new ‘taste of Yauatcha’ menu at £28.88 for two (eight equals ‘lucky’) – a temptingly priced afternoon fix (Mon-Thu 2-6pm).
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