Gone is the secret splash of Ferrari red that once surprised visitors to this elegant City bar; nowadays it's a rather proper-looking space with square edges, smart leather chairs and sombre, almost monochrome colours more redolent of the boardroom than bacchanalian excess. Don't be fooled by this decorative sobriety, for Dion is in the frivolously serious business of Champagne – from non-vintage Laurent-Perrier at £9.95 a glass to the altogether headier experience of Krug Rosé at £350 a bottle. Sharp-eyed drinkers will note the inexpensive Crémant de Bourgogne fizz from Simmonet Febvre that undercuts Champagne on price, and there's also a French-led round-up of Old and New World wines by the bottle or glass. Sandwiches, wraps and a short menu of brasserie-style mains soak up the bubbles – speculative or otherwise.
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