A nondescript stretch of Holland Park Avenue might seem like an odd spot for a trip to sunny Sardinia, but the warm-hearted regional cooking at this upmarket neighbourhood haunt should help to whisk you away for a while – just add terracotta walls, well-heeled interiors and oodles of ebullient Italian charm. The kitchen is steeped in the island’s heritage, dishing up plates of expertly rendered Sardinian malloreddus (tiny pasta dumplings in a sausage, saffron, pecorino and tomato sauce) as well as an abundance of seafood – notably spaghetti with bottarga. There are also a few generic classics such as bresaola, minestrone and lasagne for the trattoria die-hards. Patriotic wines are picked out by Roberto Pisano (MD of holding group London Fine Dining), who can sometimes be found working the floor.
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