Restaurant at The Petersham

Few restaurants have better views – the Gainsborough-like Thames water-meadow with grazing cows, the odd boat drifting past – but there’s plenty more to entice. Chef Alex Bentley has lowered his sights over recent years, losing some of the haute cuisine intricacies. Instead he’s concentrating on what his customers want, & the menu has become more classical. Expect fillet steak with béarnaise to be absolutely just so; a caramelised tomato Tatin or shellfish bisque as good as they come. Yet you’ll also find more challenging, exciting flavours – sausage of skate & prawn arrives with lemongrass broth, lemon couscous & sweetcorn fritter, for instance. Several half-bottles feature on the French-heavy wine list. The slightly sedate atmosphere becomes jollier at night, but weekday lunches tend to be business or favourite-aunt affairs.