It’s astonishing that this restaurant isn’t better known,’ enthuses one reader, and he’s right – well-sourced ingredients from named suppliers are used to make some seriously good nosh here. Weekday lunch is a cheap and cheerful mix of salads, soups and terrines (plus a few more substantial items), but the kitchen really comes into its own at night. Rainbow trout cured in Hendrick’s gin is accompanied by a carrot and borage salad almost too pretty to eat, while flavour-packed Middle White pork with black pudding and baby turnips is dressed with zingy green-lentil vinaigrette. After that, desserts such as chocolate pudding with Meantime stout ice cream are quintessentially English. Prices are very reasonable, and nicely pitched service is usually ‘quite charming’ – if sometimes a little stretched. Book ahead, especially for the ‘fabulous Sunday roasts’.
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