‘Seasonal’ is too often a meaningless watchword in London restaurants, but not at Lamberts. An October menu at this comfortably furnished, if modestly proportioned establishment bursts with autumnal flavours: from beetroot, apple, walnut & celery salad, to mallard breast with caramelised endive & girolles, or glazed boiled bacon with butternut squash, artichokes & sage. The kitchen celebrates its Britishness both in its ingredients (suppliers, breeds, even varieties are carefully sourced & specified) & its dishes. The extensive wine list, helpfully divided by style, has plenty to offer, too. Local foodies beat a path here, & although weekend lunches tend to be family affairs, the professional, on-the-ball staff help make this a proper grown-up restaurant. The new set menu, at £20 for three courses, makes it more affordable as well.
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