The City’s only kosher restaurant has recently made a move from the Bevis Marks synagogue to Middlesex Street, close to Aldgate tube. But fear not, little else has changed. The restaurant still boasts smartly underplayed contemporary interiors, with starched napery & a soundtrack of jazz burbling away in the background. The food is kosher by inclination, without being constrained by the conventions or rigours of Ashkenazi cooking: gazpacho with garlic croutons sits alongside chicken soup with matzo balls, while salt beef can be ordered Thai-style with bean shoots, sweet chilli & coriander or with frites, beetroot & horseradish. Also expect polyglot ideas such as cured duck breast with cauliflower mash & cranberry clove salsa. Wines include a Californian Zinfandel, but also note the fancy Israeli bottles at City prices.
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