The Victoria

Judging by his new set-up in leafy Sheen, Paul Merrett has had enough of the hurly-burly of central London kitchens. But if he’s looking for a quiet life, he’s not going to find it at The Victoria – an eminently appealing pub & conservatory restaurant-with-rooms in a residential enclave near Richmond. The eclectic menu borrows from the Mediterranean & beyond, but the emphasis is on balanced combinations, as in pan-fried manouri cheese & shards of Teruel ham laced with fragrant wild thyme honey. The same confidence also keeps main courses pared back. Chicken escalope is embellished only with rocket & cherry tomatoes, while a dish of chorizo, squid & chickpeas highlights the Spanish influences at work. Chilled mango soup with creamy yoghurt & lemongrass sorbet really shone at dessert. The fashion-conscious wine list mirrors the diversity of the menu & offers excellent value by the glass.