The revamped gastropub/hotel, helmed by telly-chef Paul Merrett, has garnered a well-deserved following. The conservatory dining room is an invitingly bright & airy space, while the bar, with its comfy chairs & sofas, has been left attractively pub-like; Exmoor Gold & London Pride are on tap. Merrett may have won fame for grand French & mod-Med cooking, but the menu here is a nice mix of fashionable flavours, showing plenty of kitchen know-how & careful sourcing. Asian-inspired hot & sour prawn soup with coriander & shiitake might kick-off a meal – as might serrano ham with feta, olives & honey – with tender, water-bath cooked onglet steak & béarnaise to follow. The Victoria’s location means that passing trade is unlikely (it can be quiet early in the week), but booking is essential at weekends, especially for the family lunches.
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