The Fentiman Arms

More urban than many others in the Geronimo Inns stable, The Fentiman Arms still attracts a huge local following, probably because ‘there’s nothing else around’. It’s rather expensive for the area, & the food, while perfectly acceptable, lacks that touch of originality & seasonality that you expect from the best independent gastropubs. Still, the kitchen proves its worth with the likes of pork, apple & cider pie, poached haddock with parsley mash & Chardonnay sauce, & spotted dick with golden syrup. There’s also a well-spread global wine list to consider. Staff are quite capable most of the time, but on hectic Sundays or warm, late-week evenings when the designer garden comes into its own, service can become distinctly messy.