Vivat Bacchus

South African wine meets European cheese at this fine basement restaurant, where visitors are encouraged to pick what they want from the temperature-controlled storage rooms. Five cellars are filled with 18,000-plus bottles – including a huge selection from the owner’s native South Africa – while the cheese room is stuffed with perfectly matured British & continental specimens. Diners can be escorted around the rooms to help them make an informed choice, although this isn’t obligatory. Knowledgeable & friendly staff are happy to give table-side advice too. The bare-brick dining room is a relaxed, convivial spot, attracting a smart business crowd who appreciate the ‘reliable’ & ‘good value’ modern European food with South African tinges. Choose between foie gras with toasted brioche or crocodile spring roll to start, followed by mains such as pan-fried lemon sole or springbok with a rich chocolate chilli jus. The ground-floor bar has its own attractions (see separate review).

Wine List: You can drink wine from all over the globe here, but Vivat Bacchus’s USP is South Africa. Its cellars contain choice bottles from the country’s best producers, including many rare vintages released directly from the estates. Prices are reasonable, & many wines are available by the glass. You can even wander down to the cellars & select your own bottle, if you fancy. BEST BUY WHITE 2008 Sauvignon Blanc, Paul Cluver, Elgin, South Africa, £21.50. BEST BUY RED 2004 Meinert Devon Crest, Stellenbosch, South Africa, £35.