Turn up to this sunny gastropub, with its shabby-chic interior and quirky styling, and you might be treated to crispy pork-cheek fritters with butternut-squash purée and salsa verde followed by cod from the daily specials board, delicately spiced and sitting atop an earthy lentil stew – army rations were never this good. This foodie billet also feeds allcomers with breakfasts of kedgeree and muesli – although waiting ‘50 minutes’ for (partially cooked) poached eggs on toast demands a severe reprimand. Lunch brings salads and sarnies, pub snacks fill the gaps and there are proper roasts at the weekend – plus excellent gingerbread cake with ginger ice cream and butterscotch sauce for dessert. Staff are young, willing and cheerful (if a tad lax), but the laid-back vibe generally wins everyone over – helped along by an accomplished wine list.
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