As garrisons go, this 10-year-old veteran is decidedly cosy, with vintage lampshades, intimate booths and faded portraits of fresh-faced WWII soldiers. Staff and clientele are also young and chirpy, giving the place a lively feel, even on a grey Sunday lunchtime. Roasts of Scottish beef or Kilvarock pork loin come with all the trimmings on a menu that flies the flag for ‘simple, honest-sounding' dishes. In the evenings, the food takes on a Mediterranean slant – as in crispy breaded sardines with salsa verde, paprika-marinated poussin or roast rabbit with fennel and mustard sauce – although the ‘subtle twists' never become too cheffy. Breakfast is a big draw (try the Garrison ‘full and proper'), while France dominates a varied wine list that features some well-chosen boutique producers. Overall, it's a welcoming billet for any hungry recruit – especially with a private ‘cinema room' downstairs.
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