A soothing Indian antidote to the foodie mayhem of Borough Market, this basement restaurant hides a smart prospect behind its rather forgettable narrow glass frontage. Descend the stairs, take a seat and peruse an extensive menu that mixes curry-house classics with a few less-familiar regional specialities – tandooris, tikkas, rogan josh and biryanis line up alongside coconut-crusted lemon sole steamed in a banana leaf, stir-fried baby squid and so-called ‘adventurous show bites’ such as braised wild-duck breast or king prawns piri-piri. Set platters include an Ayurvedic version offering ‘low-fat energy food’ based on strict dietary principles, and there are ‘power lunch boxes’ to take out. To drink, cooling mango lassi or Bangla beer are excellent thirst-quenchers. Complaints about ‘poor, carefree service’ and ‘bland, loveless’ curries may explain why Silka doesn’t have a higher profile.
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