Lanes

A new pea green paint job has freshened up this casually urbane City fringe basement & is set off by Warhol-like images of 1960s icons from Michael Caine to Christine Keeler. The menu is a mix of fashion & comfort, which includes starters of Jerusalem artichoke soup with truffle oil & artichoke crisps or pannacotta of cauliflower with pickled cucumber & avruga caviar, & mains of roast cod with chive mash, pak choi & langoustine jus or sweet potato & sage ravioli with pea veloute & truffle oil. It’s not all fancy though: look carefully & you’ll spot battered halibut with chips. Puds offer a similar mix of comfort & cleverness. The wine list is split between lower-priced New World wines such as an easy-drinking 2006 Saint Clair Marlborough Riesling & higher-priced French bottles which go for prestige rather than fashion. Bar food includes nibbles, platters & a few items from the main menu.