No bells or whistles, St John Bread & Wine staunchly follows its gilded Clerkenwell sibling by dealing in unreformed British seasonal food. Sharing plates seem to make sense here: smoked sprats with horseradish is an exercise in pure simplicity, while other delights have included cauliflower soup enriched with back fat, potted hare, & crispy pig’s cheek with chicory & mustard. Owner Fergus Henderson’s obsession with unadorned honesty in all things also shows in the interiors – stark white walls & utilitarian furniture are the order of the day. Most people are more than happy, gorging on ‘magnificent’ pies, ‘little piggies’ of the suckling variety & more besides, while the French wine list has enough curious names to assuage oenophile geeks. The only blot seems to be the desire to keep everything real – hence gripes about the ‘self-consciously grotty’ toilets.
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