Nose-to-tail guru Fergus Henderson keeps things oh-so-simple at this baby sibling of Michelin-starred St John, and continues to champion the virtues of unreformed British food on a daily menu that deals in big-hitting seasonal flavours. Crispy pig’s skin with tarragon, kohlrabi with brown shrimps and cucumber, and saddle of rabbit with barley and radishes all hit the mark, rounded off with half-a-dozen freshly baked madeleines or a bowl of bread pudding with butterscotch sauce. The expertly sourced wine list also deserves a big thumbs-up, including plenty of lesser-known producers. There is much to like about Henderson’s straightforward, ‘respectful’ approach to top-quality ingredients, but grumbles persist about the ‘stark’ dining room, as well as the unsociable, conversation-killing acoustics and raucous din when the place is packed.
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