Jin Kichi

Don’t be deceived by Jin-Kichi’s higgledy-piggledy interior: the outmoded decor, tired furnishings & closely packed tables are no indication of food quality, which is pretty darned impressive. With chefs lined up behind a robata grill, it’s no surprise that skewers are a speciality. Yakitori, the typical chicken & spring onion combo, sets the benchmark, but there are much more unusual options, from ox tongue to chicken skin crisped with salt, or delicious quails’ eggs dappled with teriyaki sauce. Other hot stuff includes stewed pork belly & grilled salmon jaw, but don’t overlook the sushi; the raw fish is glisteningly fresh (try the rolls packed with silky yellowtail & avocado). As an alternative to the expensive & limited wine list, drink hot or cold saké, or shochu cocktails (grapefruit sour, for instance).