Dolled up to the nines with sultry crimson hues, plush booths & dim lighting, this subterranean brasserie attached to the suave Malmaison hotel can appear terrifically titillating or a tad tawdry – depending on your viewpoint. The explicit artwork hanging over the entrance may raise a conservative eyebrow or two, & the kitchen aims to inject some cross-Channel passion into British produce. ‘No more long-distance love affairs’ proclaims a menu that insists on careful sourcing: Cornish lemon sole is paired with chorizo & ratatouille, Dorset crab risotto is dressed with garlic butter, & Donald Russell’s Aberdeenshire steaks & burgers generally win over red-blooded business trippers. The only downsides seem to be high prices & rather haughty service. Cocktails are given pride of place on the drinks list.
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