Dolled up to the nines with sultry crimson hues, plush booths & dim lighting, this subterranean brasserie attached to the suave Malmaison hotel can appear terrifically titillating or a tad tawdry – depending on your viewpoint. The explicit artwork hanging over the entrance may raise a conservative eyebrow or two, & the kitchen aims to inject some cross-Channel passion into British produce. ‘No more long-distance love affairs’ proclaims a menu that insists on careful sourcing: Cornish lemon sole is paired with chorizo & ratatouille, Dorset crab risotto is dressed with garlic butter, & Donald Russell’s Aberdeenshire steaks & burgers generally win over red-blooded business trippers. The only downsides seem to be high prices & rather haughty service. Cocktails are given pride of place on the drinks list.
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Cooksister :: The Malmaison Brasserie
If somebody invited you to dinner at “the bad house”, would you: a) assume that the description referred to the food and make sure you eat at home before you go; b) assume that it was some sort of dance club and pack your earplugs; or c) assume you were going to a strip club (as in down, bad boy, down!)? Luckily for me, none of the above turned out to be the case when Michelle invited me to join her for dinner at the Malmaison brasserie recently. Malmaison is a small chain of 12 exclusive hotels throughout the UK and although the name literally does mean bad or sick house in French, don’t worry – no lapdancing will spoil your dinner! ;) The name is taken from Chateau Malmaison, a chateau in the suburbs of Paris famously purchased by Napoleon’s wife Josephine in 1799 which (together with the Tuileries) became the French government’s headquarters from 1800 to 1802. (And no, nobody knows why it was called that in the first place!). The Malmaison group of hotels opened for business in 1994 and London’s outpost is situated in a former nurse’s home on Charterhouse Square, one of those unexpected oases of cobbled calm in the middle of the City, a stone’s throw away from Smithfield meat market...
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