Ever-serene Latium is now into its 10th year as a determinedly traditional Italian a stone's throw from Oxford Street. Its ethos seems charmingly old fashioned in a neighbourhood prone to fits of foodie faddishness – deferential service, linen-clad tables and abstract pictures of Venetian gondolas all chime perfectly with the smartly turned-out food emanating from a well-drilled kitchen. Pride of place goes to chef/patron Maurizio Morelli's signature ravioli menu – anything from pumpkin with butter and sage to a richly sauced lemon and ricotta version. Elsewhere, expect delicately textured dishes from right across Italy – antipasti of poached octopus with stewed Umbrian lentils and sautéed escarole leaves, or monkfish wrapped in buffalo mozzarella with a San Marzano tomato and prawn sauce. The wine list is as resolutely Italian as the steaming espresso machine at the bar.
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