Famed for its outstanding ravioli, Latium is unashamedly old school in its ways: venerable waiters cosset their diners, the room is elegant & the cooking memorable. It’s also a highly personal place dedicated not only to pasta parcels of every description (from an acclaimed fish version with dried mullet roe to veal with courgette & pecorino), but also to upmarket dishes from elsewhere in the Italian repertoire. Inventive ideas sit happily on the menu alongside more traditionally rendered classics, whether it’s beef carpaccio with rocket & quails’ eggs or wild sea bass with a sauce of ginger & aubergines, served with olives & monk’s beard (Tuscan chicory). Elsewhere, pappardelle might be dressed with a rich ragù of Herdwick lamb, while Latium’s take on vitello tonnato involves poached calf’s tongue with parsley & tuna sauce. The all-Italian wine list offers ‘excellent variety’, although the hushed atmosphere can be a ‘little limp’ for some.
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