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(menu)

Morgan M (∗)

Address:489 Liverpool Road, London N7 8NS
Tel:020 7609 3560
Website: Visit Morgan M website
Price: £60.00Wine: £16.00 Champagne: £43.00
Opening Hours:Wed-Fri, Sun 12N-2pm Tues-Sat 7-9pm

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Though the Holloway Road din is just around the corner, all is serene inside this gastronomic tour-de-force with its pale green colour scheme, frosted glass windows & intimate air. Chef-patron Morgan Meunier has worked in some of London’s best kitchens, & has distilled his knowledge & flair into this solo venture. The food is modern, seasonal & lightly rendered, but it’s unashamedly French, with all the sophistication & richness that implies. Gazpacho comes with a tomato & olive oil sorbet that’s the very essence of tomato flavour; tender roast saddle of rabbit arrives with farci of the leg, Israeli couscous, herb & lemon jus; & strawberry soup is paired with pain d’épice ice cream, toast & strawberries. Each course is offered with matching wines from the French-led list, which includes a few obscurities among the big names. Some think the service arrogant, but we found it quietly formal & charming.

Chef: Morgan Meunier

Morgan M’s Chef - Morgan Meunier arrived from France to cook at Monsieur Max in Hampton Hill more than seven years ago, helping chef Alex Bentley gain a Michelin star. Four years on he became head chef of Admiralty restaurant in Somerset House, but always wanted to go it alone; in September 2003 he got the chance, & opened Morgan M as a showcase for his classic French food with a dash of modernism & Italian cuisine thrown in.

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Reader reviews of Morgan M:

Jayne W.
Silver Reviewer

Jayne W. ( Female, United Kingdom )

Editor's pick

Morgan M is the place I would take people to when they think they know all the best restaurants in London. They have to have one of the best priced tasting menus ever for 6 courses at £48, with matched wines for £28. Even better is that its probably one of the few places that has a vegetarian tasting menu. And as long as the entire table is having a tasting menu, you can opt for the meat or veggie option – they don't make the entire table have the same.

We first came here when it first opened, back in 2003, and the decor was pretty bland, but they've had a re-vamp since then and it looks and feels much warmer and cozier. The sommelier is extremely helpful, we had a table of 5 and he advised us to get a bottle of wine with each course as it would end up being cheaper than all of us having the matched wines. How often does that happen ? We did end up being very, very relaxed at the end of the evening, however.

The food is a triumph. Very clever combinations and I do like the idea of being given options on the tasting menu, given that there are a few things that I'm not keen on eating, ie. offal, snails and frog's legs !

The absolute only downside to this restaurant is its location. Very offputting if you end up walking back to the tube late at night. Get a cab.

13 August 2009
Overall:9
Food and Drink:9
Service:8
Atmosphere:8
Value for Money:10
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Niall M.
Reviews: 1

Niall M. ( 30s, Male )

Dreadfully disappointing service. We had the tasting menu and had to wait 35 minutes for the fish and over 45 minutes for the meat course.
When we enquired about or food the waiting staff asked what we expected them to do and advised us not to come on a busy night.
The chef does his usual end of evening walk by, great if you want to compliment him but not so great if you want to point out any of the failings. Aggressive and rude

About the 3rd or 4th time we have been, certainly the last.

November 2008
Overall:3
Food and Drink:7
Service:1
Atmosphere:4
Value for Money:5
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