Arsène Wenger is reportedly a regular here, & in many ways, Morgan M mirrors his Arsenal team: a big name at the helm (chef Morgan Meunier), easy on the eye, purist, but displaying real flair. This sophisticated, obscurely located & very French haunt turns heads, & devotees reckon Monsieur M is ‘the most underestimated chef in the country’, capable of delivering ‘class, power & inventiveness’. Exquisitely rendered seasonal menus show off his meticulous style: a cleansing gazpacho with tomato & olive-oil sorbet sharpens the palate before a succession of refined dishes including a ballottine of foie gras with apricot & chervil salad, roasted rack & confit shoulder of new season’s lamb with artichoke, courgette & barigoule sauce, & a delightfully puffy apricot soufflé. Morgan M is also famed for its superb, stereotype-bashing vegetarian menu. The mood can seem rather cool & staid, although service lightens up as the evening progresses, & there’s much to admire in the confident, exquisitely honed wine list.
Morgan Meunier arrived from France to cook at Monsieur Max in Hampton Hill more than seven years ago, helping chef Alex Bentley gain a Michelin star. Four years on he became head chef of Admiralty restaurant in Somerset House, but always wanted to go it alone; in September 2003 he got the chance, & opened Morgan M as a showcase for his classic French food with a dash of modernism & Italian cuisine thrown in. Are you the restaurant owner? Click here for Links & Logos
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