Morgan M

Address:	489 Liverpool Road N7 8NS
Tel	020 7609 3560
Website:	Visit Morgan M website
Price: £46.00	Wine: £15.00	Champagne: £39.00
Opening Hours:	Wed-Fri, Sun 12N-2pm Tues-Sat 7-9pm

Square Meal review of Morgan M:

‘Why does this restaurant not have a Michelin Star?’ ask fans of Morgan Meunier’s unassuming restaurant buried in the depths of Highbury. A minor refurb has left the grown-up, muted dining room looking a bit more inviting, but it’s the worldly Gallic food that gets emotions truly charged: ‘the lobster cannelloni was so good I nearly wept’, coos one fan. There’s an a la carte option, but it’s the great value tasting menus (£45 for six courses or £39 for the vegetarian option) that are not to be missed. Flavours & textures are perfectly judged: glorious chilled gazpacho comes with a tomato & olive oil sorbet, roast saddle of rabbit is enlivened by its herb & lemon jus, while new season lamb (confit shoulder & roasted rack) comes with artichokes & barigoule sauce. Monsieur Meunier will ask departing diners what they thought of their meal: testament to the fact that this is a passionately run place, with an attention to detail rarely found in these parts.

Wine List: This mid-sized list draws its inspiration from the food, so is dominated by France, with a smattering of bins from elsewhere. Its strengths are the classic areas of Bordeaux, Burgundy & the Rhone, although there are some excellent bins from the south. The offer is lifted above the ordinary by some interesting older vintages, including a 1947 Jurancon. Prices are reasonable, so there is plenty under £30. Best Buy White 2005 ‘La Reine des Bois’ Lirac, Domaine de la Mordee, Rhone Valley, France, £39. Best Buy Red 2003 Chateau Grand Village, Bordeaux, France, £27.

Chef: Morgan Meunier
Morgan Meunier arrived from France to cook at Monsieur Max in Hampton Hill more than seven years ago, helping chef Alex Bentley gain a Michelin star. Four years on he became head chef of Admiralty restaurant in Somerset House. But Meunier was always keen to go it alone and in September 2003 he opened Morgan M as a showcase for his classic French background with a dash of modernism and Italian cuisine thrown in. His dishes also involve a consistent opposition of flavours and textures, such as diver-caught scallops with white chicory tarte tatin and an onion soubise or ravioli of snails in Chablis, poached garlic and red wine jus.

Morgan M Location: