An ‘outrageously beautiful’ venue in the courtyard of the Royal Exchange, this urbane all-day café/bar really knows how to make an impression. If high ceilings aid the appetite there are none higher, & the surrounding retail therapy is as swanky as it gets – but if you crave privacy, retreat to the comfortable mezzanine lounge instead. The culinary focus is the shellfish bar, with Scottish langoustines & clams or Jersey rock oysters prepared as you wait; alternatively, graze on a hot salt beef sandwich or a Caesar salad if the comforting prospect of confit pork belly with morteau sausage, Puy lentils & parsley purée doesn’t appeal. Drinks include plenty of fizz, wines by the glass & mainstream cocktails as well as world beers such as Estonian Viru & Portuguese Sagres. Erratic service can be the proverbial grit in the oyster.
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