Fino may not offer glitzy decor or trendy music, but it has carved out an enviable niche with its ‘great flavours’ & staff who make everyone feel ‘remembered & special’. Unlike the
competition hereabouts, there is plenty of elbow room in this ‘done-up’ subterranean space (think warm woods & modern art), although the babble of chatter can be deafening. Small plates provide
a showcase for fine-tuned Spanish cooking old & new: on the one hand, expect caramel-hued tortilla with a perfectly runny centre, textbook ham croquetas & a refined version of inky arroz
negro served in a dinky copper pan with curls of pink squid; on the other, look for fashionable ideas including deliciously fatty nibbles of chorizo-wrapped potato or a terrific salad of bitter
baby gem with crispy pancetta, soft anchovies & shallot vinaigrette. Worryingly, grumbles about slapdash, ‘flavourless’ food & high prices seem to be gaining momentum.
WINE LIST: Fino has put together a carefully crafted list of wines – all from Spain – to serve alongside its tantalising tapas. But it’s not just Albariño, Rioja & sherry; there are also
wines by boutique producers from Jumilla, Toro, Somontano, Utiel-Requena & Bierzo. Prices are very reasonable, too. BEST BUY WHITE 2007 Laus, Flor de Gewürztraminer, Somontano, Spain,
£37. BEST BUY RED 2006 Casa de la Ermita, Crianza, Monastrell/Petit Verdot, Jumilla, Spain, £28.
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