Don't expect hanging hams and faux-bodega kitsch at Fino – this Spanish stalwart staked its claim as a serious tapas enterprise long before the current crop of fashionable young pretenders arrived. A well-groomed dining room reflects its sense of purpose with sober wood panelling and smart modern art, while the kitchen's preference is for clearly defined flavours: whet your appetite with perfectly squidgy ham croquetas, before moving on to baby cuttlefish nuanced with romesco sauce or, perhaps, the signature crisp pork belly. There are also one or two more elaborate constructions at play (octopus head with fennel tempura, for example), although it's hard to trump a straightforward tortilla with a deliciously runny centre. The food is supported by a carefully crafted, reasonably priced list of all-Spanish wines. ‘One of London's little gems' insists a fan – although others have complained about high prices of late.
With nothing (not even sparklers) from outside Spain, Fino’s list makes a bold statement of confidence in the country’s versatility, which takes in cava, a multitude of sherries, and a great selection of still wines.
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