Sketch: Gallery

This segment of the Sketch experience does indeed play to the gallery & there are few other restaurants in London that so fully exploit the idea of restaurant-as-theatre, from the video installations projected onto the walls to the quirky bits of design that distract at every turn. The food is a little more straightforward than the setting, with pan-fried gnocchi with sweet onion cream & curried green pepper followed by roasted scallops, burrata cheese & radicchio among dishes to have recently impressed. But given the lack of culinary fireworks – only a candy-sweet pudding of bubble-gum ice-cream & orange blossom marshmallow displayed real invention – a common complaint is that ‘you’re paying for the trendy surroundings rather than the quality of the food & service’. Still, with the nightly atmosphere of a fabulous party (complete with the heat & noise), there are plenty happy to pay.