In less capable hands, the melding of upmarket French & Asian cuisines could become laboured, but L’Etranger pulls off this tricky concept with some panache. The sophisticated dining room, with
its restrained lilac & grey colour scheme, allows the innovative menu & weighty wine list to do the talking. Starters such as spicy salmon & pollock ceviche, ever-popular tuna spring
rolls, & a confit duck, watermelon & cashew-nut salad have heavy South-East Asian accents, while mains of wild rabbit with honey mustard sauce & char siu pineapple, or shoulder of lamb
with ginger-spiced aubergine, lean towards grandmère classics. Thankfully, desserts keep things light & fruity. ‘First-class’ service (including a clued-up sommelier) sometimes veers
towards briskness, but that doesn’t bother the regulars from South Ken’s French community. This is a classy operation, with upmarket prices to match, although set lunches & ‘early bird’ menus
(£16.50/19.50 for two/three courses) provide a cheaper course of action.
Wine List: This restaurant has long been a destination for the wine lover. This year the selection is even more impressive, with more rarities than ever. A big list covers the world,
although fans of the US, Italy, Champagne & Bordeaux will find themselves in vinous heaven. Prices for older wines are a bargain & there are heavy discounts on selected bins at lunch.
Best Buy White 2005 Marsanne, Domaine Louis Chèze, Rhône Valley, France, £26. Best Buy Red 1999 Savigny-lès-Beaune, Nicolas Potel, Burgundy, France, £55.
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