A highly idiosyncratic restaurant, sultry L’Etranger has gained a fine reputation for haute French cooking with modish Japanese incursions, although the results can thrill or confuse depending on your viewpoint. Consider a starter of tuna tataki dabbed with truffled ponzu jelly & embellished with slivers of foie gras, or steak tartare enlivened with soy dressing, or even a correctly timed veal cutlet with wasabi mash on the side. L’Etranger’s dining room has a touch of edgy 80s-style minimalism (all sharply trimmed surfaces, mirrors & expanses of black leather), while the private dining area exudes a warm, cosy vibe with wine bottles lining the walls. Some readers complain of patchy service & high prices, but most of L’Etranger’s customers are regulars who notice no such shortcomings. The new weekday lunch menu (£14/£18 for two/three courses) is particularly good value.
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