Gastro

Seminal from the start & sentimental to the last, this French-accented wine bar & bistro is beginning to look tired & worn. But though there’s precious little in terms of comfort for its customers, there is pleasure to be found in the brusque frenzy of the waiting staff & the menu filled with French bistro throwbacks: oysters, tournedos Rossini (beef topped with foie gras & a Madeira sauce), herb-crusted filet de fletan (halibut), assiette de charcuterie. It’s just the kind of place you’d expect to find in a French provincial town, but never do. Cooking’s so-so & the Gallic shrug to vegetables means separate ordering & a spiraling bill.