Carluccio's Caffe Canary Wharf

It’s more than a decade since the first Carluccio’s ‘caffé’ launched in the capital, & the general feeling these days is that the once-winsome chain is now spreading itself rather thinly – witness gripes about ‘stodgy, tasteless food’ & ‘awful service’. Nonetheless, the group still has a loyal cadre of fans – even if most plus points relate to the ‘great locations’ & ‘nice outdoor spaces’ of some branches. Antipasti, salads & pasta still form the bedrock of the menu (goats’ cheese, roasted red pepper & pine nuts on balsamic dressed mixed leaves or handmade tortellini filled with wine-braised venison, say), with half a dozen secondi such as pan-fried sea bass with a tomato salsa & sautéed potatoes adding just a touch of finesse. An Italian-cum-British breakfast menu plus a cheap & cheerful wine list complete the picture.