Soaring columns & stately flower arrangements emphasise the sheer height of the ceilings at this ‘impressive’ City restaurant, but grained woods, subdued lighting & near-subliminal music ensure this former banking hall is soothing as well as spacious. The cooking also manages to blend comfort & theatre, with dishes such as Dorset Bay crab with pea & pistachio mousse & pink grapefruit jelly or Elwy valley lamb with Provençal vegetables sitting alongside ‘slippery’, sweet cod poached at 48º & served with chorizo, vine tomatoes & startlingly black squid-ink polenta. Modern themes also define desserts such as gooey chocolate moelleux with clean-tasting, astringent almond-milk sorbet. The wine list offers bags of interest at a relatively modest cost. All in all, ‘good for business lunches’, although there is the occasional gripe about uneven service.
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