A Cena continues to cook modish Italian food, serve it pleasingly and send diners off with smiles on their faces. The menu changes regularly, but you can always expect smart salads and classic antipasti such as Parmesan, rosemary and lemon fritters, or fried artichokes with salami ahead of calf’s liver, Italian-style grilled rib-eye steak with roast potatoes, or marinated hake fillet with capers, white wine and wilted greens. The cooking is sound and the place fills up with Twickenham’s smart set for dinners towards the end of the week, although lunchtimes are quiet – unless there’s a rugby match taking place, of course. Personable staff are always happy to add some informative detail to the carefully assembled but sparsely annotated Italian wine list.
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