Carnevale

Flying the flag for meat-free eating in the unpromising surroundings of down-at-heel Whitecross Street, this diminutive veggie demolishes the nut cutlet image of vegetarianism by being not merely veggie but Mediterranean veggie, so that the shop window at the front is full of adorable edibles & the menu smacks of desire, not denial. Hot food from the set menu might include a soup of the day followed by risotto with baked plum tomatoes, wild garlic leaves, herbs & parmesan. Alternatively, mix & match from the available salads, which include everything from tabbouleh to beetroot with watercress, or tuck into one of the interesting sandwiches: artichoke hearts with olive relish & leaves, say. Organic wines to wash it all down include a 2002 Sedlescombe Dry White from East Sussex.