The four branches of Sofra (& upmarket big brother Ozer) were once a huge hit, boasting well-located sites, classy surrounds & decent, affordable Turkish cooking. The fantastic locations – including the sunnier side of St Christopher’s Place & the romantic cobbled streets of Shepherd Market – remain, but the current menu seems to have lost its way. In an attempt to follow culinary fashion, Sofra has jumped onto every bandwagon going, doling out complimentary maki rolls to drinkers, & adding burgers & black cod to its confusing repertoire. Look past these impostors towards its true Turkish heart, & you’ll find the odd gem – homemade hoummos, crunchy falafel, & grilled sujuk (spicy sausages) to start, with a warming dish of sautéed lamb with smoked aubergine ‘caviar’, yoghurt & garlic to follow. Service can be slow, but a warm welcome compensates.
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