Tiny, unassuming Hunan may appear slightly underwhelming with its bare walls and crisp white linen reminiscent of an Anglicised old-school Chinese restaurant, but this well-regarded and highly individual stalwart comes up with plenty of surprises. A tailored, ‘no menu' policy piques the interest of diners willing to experiment, especially when it's tagged with very agreeable prices at lunchtime. You are free to opt out from, or fire up, the spice, but it's best to arrive with an open mind as chef Peng treks through China's gastronomic regions to create fascinating, tapas-style feasts that can run to as many as 18 courses. Expect unusual dishes such as soused beef tripe, jellyfish salad rolls or sticky radish cakes with sweet chilli, followed by drunken duck or steamed sea bass with toasted sesame, ginger and spring onion, all accompanied by a well-considered wine list. Friendly and ‘solicitous' staff are your guides, although they can sometimes seem somewhat aloof.
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