Hunan

Genteel Pimlico is not where you might expect to find one of London’s best Chinese restaurants & first impressions of Hunan’s narrow green & cream dining room suggest neighbourhood stalwart rather than destination dining. It’s an impression enhanced by the a la carte’s perfectly pleasant line-up of hot & spicy beef, braised scallops & prawn & spinach dumplings, but the appearance of owner Mr Peng to take your order makes clear why fans of Chinese cooking trek across town to sample Hunan’s food: he’ll firmly suggest opting for the feast menu, a 10-course meal of small plates chosen following a quick consultation of diners’ preferences & prepared according to whatever takes the kitchen’s fancy that day. Meals progress from vividly flavoured broths to the freshest of seafood dishes & succulent slow-cooked meats destined to defeat even the greediest of appetites, while intricate presentation means everything looks as good as it tastes. Drink Chinese tea or a bottle from the French-leaning wine list.