Il Bordello

Those with small appetites, says one devotee, should be ‘afraid, very afraid’ of visiting this warm & friendly neighbourhood Italian. Portions are huge & diners rarely make it to dessert. The menu is unashamedly old-school Italian, split into traditional categories of antipasti, pasta (tagliatelle with scallops, monkfish & langoustines is a top recommendation), meat & fish, plus a choice of 20 different pizzas, including a cracking calzone. Old-fashioned, avuncular service makes first-time visitors feel like regulars, while the exclusively Italian wine list is well priced. Given its popularity with local residents, bookings are essential.