With their dickie bows & dapper waistcoats, the genial old waiters who work the tables at Il Bordello are dab hands at ‘buona sera’. Their old-fashioned cheer works like a charm on the local families & parties of suited types who use this place as a second home. Though it doesn’t actually have red-checked tablecloths & flasks of Chianti, they’re here in spirit – & the prospect of huge bowlfuls of piping hot spag bol or ginormous pizzas helps things along nicely. A vast menu of retro antipasti, meaty ‘secondi’ & suchlike is supplemented by a blackboard of luxurious specials including fillet steak with porcini, lobster aurora & turbot. Throw in an accessible list of Italian wines with plenty below £20 & you can see why booking is absolutely essential.
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