A faded green frontage & well-worn features testify to Mar I Terra’s enduring appeal, although coming here can be a ‘jarringly intimate experience’ – especially when this tapas joint close to the railway tracks bursts into life after its afternoon siesta. However, there’s no doubting the excellence of the all-Spanish wine list or the punchy vigour of the nifty menu – try habas tiernas de Lodosa (baby broad beans sautéed with pata negra ham, mint, tomato & sofrito), quail a la plancha with salsa verde or wood-roasted piquillo peppers stuffed with fresh crabmeat. Alternatively, draw up a perch at the bar (a relic from the building’s past life as a boozer) & conjure up some pure satisfaction from a glass of sherry plus a plate of exclusive jamón gran reserva.
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