Sketch: Lecture Room & Library
| Address: | 9 Conduit Street, London W1S 2XG | |
|---|---|---|
| Tel: | 020 7659 4500 | |
| Email: | info@sketch.uk.com | |
| Website: | Visit website | |
| Price: £96.00 | Wine: £19.00 | Champagne: £49.50 |
| Opening Hours: | Tues-Fri 12N-2.30pm Tues-Sat 6.30-10.30pm | |
Square Meal review of Sketch: Lecture Room & Library:
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There’s something surreal, almost unsettling, about ascending the dimly lit staircase that leads to Sketch’s Lecture Room & Library, passing modern art installations & a lavatory attendant dressed as a saucy French maid. But there’s nothing discomforting about the dining room itself; with its golden-coloured walls, richly upholstered armchairs & huge, widely spaced tables, this is one of London’s most ravishing spaces. Revelatory canapés set the tone for the creativity to come, with dishes presented as a series of component parts. A starter called ‘Perfume of the Earth’ presents, among other curiosities, bosky girolles in a deeply flavoured chicken bouillon, & a supremely indulgent foie gras soup with Sarawak pepper. With its prohibitive pricing (£40), this could be dismissed as precious extravagance, were it not for the accomplishment of the cooking, which offers genuinely palate-expanding combinations of flavour & texture – courtesy of consultant chef Pierre Gagnaire. Friendly Savile Row-suited staff are well drilled on the intricacies of the menu.
Wine List: Sketch holds a stunning array of wine, with a list running to 100 well-annotated pages. The selection includes all the classics any demanding oenophile could desire, & also finds space for plenty of up-&-coming & unusual wines. The by-the-glass section contains such delights as d’Yquem, Montrachet & 1850 Madeira. Provided you’re willing to part with £40, there’s ample choice. Best Buy White 2004 Montlouis Sec Les Dix Arpents, La Taille aux Loups, Loire Valley, France, £36. Best Buy Red 2001 Bandol, Domaine La Suffrène, Provence, France, £41.
Chef: Pierre Gagnaire
Although he says that his love of cooking took a while to develop, Pierre Gagnaire has matured into one of France's pre-eminent chefs, gaining three Michelin stars with both incarnations of his eponymous French restaurant. Born in 1950, he worked his way through various kitchens in France & the US before returning to cook at his father's restaurant, Le Clos Fleury near St Etienne, maintaining its Michelin star. At 30, he launched his own restaurant in St Etienne, gaining a second star in 1986 & a third in 1993. In 1996 he set up at the Hotel Balzac in Paris, regaining his three-star status within two years. He & restaurateur Mourad Mazouz launched the headline-grabbing Sketch in 2002. Sketch: Lecture Room & Library Location:
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