Lecture room
‘Make sure you know who is paying’ is sage advice for anyone about to stick their fork into a £45 starter at Sketch Lecture Room & Library. That’s not to say that über-chef Pierre Gagnaire’s
wild London restaurant doesn’t deliver bang for your buck; a slew of raves from readers suggests it does. From the gold walls to the eye-popping carpet, ornate side tables & comically outsized
vases, it puts London’s other gilded gastro-temples in the shade. Intriguingly titled dishes such as ‘perfume of the earth’ or simply titled ones (‘pig’) challenge the senses with audacious
flavours & textures. Here’s one: ‘autumn’ – a starter comprising wild-duck fillet on toast, wild mushroom pickles, lettuce filled with bone marrow, hazelnuts, Paimpol coco beans, pumpkin
velouté with coconut milk, autumn vegetables, & an apple & tandoori ice cream. Surrender to it. Clever, charming staff (all ‘consummate professionals’) are there to hold your hand.
WINE LIST: France takes the starring role in this tome of a wine list. Sketch is all about the classics, & Champagne is a particular strength. The extensive offer from Bordeaux &
Burgundy doesn’t justify the high margins but helps to make the prices more digestible. BEST BUY WHITE 2002 André Bonhomme, Cuvée Vieilles Vignes, Viré-Clessé, Burgundy, France, £46. BEST
BUY RED 2005 Tissot, Pinot Noir, Côtes du Jura, Jura, France, £56.
Although he says that his love of cooking took a while to develop, Pierre Gagnaire has matured into one of France's pre-eminent chefs, gaining three Michelin stars with both incarnations of his eponymous French restaurant. Born in 1950, he worked his way through various kitchens in France & the US before returning to cook at his father's restaurant, Le Clos Fleury near St Etienne, maintaining its Michelin star. At 30, he launched his own restaurant in St Etienne, gaining a second star in 1986 & a third in 1993. In 1996 he set up at the Hotel Balzac in Paris, regaining his three-star status within two years. He & restaurateur Mourad Mazouz launched the headline-grabbing Sketch in 2002. Are you the restaurant owner? Click here for Links & Logos
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