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Sketch: Lecture Room & Library two stars

Address:9 Conduit Street, London W1S 2XG
Tel:020 7659 4500
Email:
Website:Visit website
Price: £96.00Wine: £19.00Champagne: £49.50
Opening Hours:Tues-Fri 12N-2.30pm Tues-Sat 6.30-10.30pm

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There’s something surreal, almost unsettling, about ascending the dimly lit staircase that leads to Sketch’s Lecture Room & Library, passing modern art installations & a lavatory attendant dressed as a saucy French maid. But there’s nothing discomforting about the dining room itself; with its golden-coloured walls, richly upholstered armchairs & huge, widely spaced tables, this is one of London’s most ravishing spaces. Revelatory canapés set the tone for the creativity to come, with dishes presented as a series of component parts. A starter called ‘Perfume of the Earth’ presents, among other curiosities, bosky girolles in a deeply flavoured chicken bouillon, & a supremely indulgent foie gras soup with Sarawak pepper. With its prohibitive pricing (£40), this could be dismissed as precious extravagance, were it not for the accomplishment of the cooking, which offers genuinely palate-expanding combinations of flavour & texture – courtesy of consultant chef Pierre Gagnaire. Friendly Savile Row-suited staff are well drilled on the intricacies of the menu.

Wine List: Sketch holds a stunning array of wine, with a list running to 100 well-annotated pages. The selection includes all the classics any demanding oenophile could desire, & also finds space for plenty of up-&-coming & unusual wines. The by-the-glass section contains such delights as d’Yquem, Montrachet & 1850 Madeira. Provided you’re willing to part with £40, there’s ample choice. Best Buy White 2004 Montlouis Sec Les Dix Arpents, La Taille aux Loups, Loire Valley, France, £36. Best Buy Red 2001 Bandol, Domaine La Suffrène, Provence, France, £41.

Chef: Pierre Gagnaire

Sketch: Lecture Room & Library’s Chef - Sketch: Lecture Room & Library chef Pierre Gagnaire Although he says that his love of cooking took a while to develop, Pierre Gagnaire has matured into one of France's pre-eminent chefs, gaining three Michelin stars with both incarnations of his eponymous French restaurant. Born in 1950, he worked his way through various kitchens in France & the US before returning to cook at his father's restaurant, Le Clos Fleury near St Etienne, maintaining its Michelin star. At 30, he launched his own restaurant in St Etienne, gaining a second star in 1986 & a third in 1993. In 1996 he set up at the Hotel Balzac in Paris, regaining his three-star status within two years. He & restaurateur Mourad Mazouz launched the headline-grabbing Sketch in 2002.

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Reader reviews of Sketch: Lecture Room & Library:

MD
Gold Reviewer

MD ( 20s, Female, London )

Editor's pick

Sketch has never ceased to amaze me, from appetizing cocktails in the futuristic and mesmerising gallery to beautifully flavoured tea and innovative pastries (the green tea and passion fruit éclair is a personal favourite). So this latest venture into the upstairs lecture room and library was filled with ample expectation.

Without disappointment I was delivered with three courses of lunchtime indulgence, with consistency and grace. The starter of lamb cassoulette served with spinach and ewe cheese veloute was beautifully balanced with a sable paste which rounded the dish perfectly and brought all the ingredients together, as diverse and seemingly contrary as they were.

In a defiant attempt to see if the vegetarian option was executed in equal fashion (I’m often sceptical of this and believe a good mark of a restaurant is one which shows equal reverence to all dietary requirements), I opted for the gratinated polenta with parmesan and pan fried vegetables, curried butter and a side of cauliflower & coconut soup – including aloe vera and green apple. My eyebrow was just as raised as yours is now. However, call it alchemy, call it a stroke of luck, the dish worked to perfection and reinstated my belief that vegetarian cooking can and should be just as creative and innovative.

An aesthetically pleasing dessert of coffee parfait, plum wine paste and mascarpone cream served to further enhance the experience and brought the lunch to a delightful end. Service was equally exceptional and together with the light contemporary yet richly decorated surroundings proved a good combination for an afternoon of food indulgence.

Proof that those Michelin star inspectors were right on the nose giving this worthy establishment one of their prestigious stars. Go see for yourself.

22 March 2010
Overall:9
Food and Drink:9
Service:9
Atmosphere:9
Value for Money:9
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Joanna L.

Joanna L. ( 30s, Female, London )

Wow – what an experience, excellent from arrival to finish. Service was impeccable but not stuffy, food was exceptional and creative. Expensive but worth every penny. A truly theatrical culinary experience, in a good way!

17 February 2010
Overall:10
Food and Drink:10
Service:10
Atmosphere:9
Value for Money:9
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Jennifer D.
Reviews: 1

Jennifer D. ( 30s, Female, United Kingdom )

I dined at the Lecture Room last week with my parents for an anniversary present.
This is not somewhere I would usually have chosen but I pleasantly surprised right from the moment we arrived.
The menu was varied and when we asked for recommendations the staff were so helpful in advising on complimentary dishes. I am so pleased still with the experience I had at sketch and I would definately tell friends to visit here.

October 2008
Overall:10
Food and Drink:10
Service:10
Atmosphere:10
Value for Money:10
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