Semplice (‘simplicity’) seems an odd name for this upscale restaurant, with its salubrious surrounds & overtly ambitious cooking. Sharp-suited staff welcome visitors into a dining room
furnished with walnut panelling, monochrome leather seats & gold-frescoed walls. First impressions augur well, & the mood is enhanced by the arrival of moreish fresh breads. To follow, al
dente squares of ricotta-filled ravioli are topped with sweet langoustine tails & spindly strips of deep-fried courgette, while milk-fed Piedmontese veal comes with a summery accompaniment of
broad beans, carrot & herb sauce. The showstopper, though, is roast & pan-fried rabbit: presented as confit shoulder in pastry, breaded leg meat & assorted offal. Well-kept Italian
cheeses with homemade chutney end meals with a ripe flourish. Gripes are few but focus on service, which can be both slow & over-attentive. Like the cooking, the wine list has a northern
Italian flavour, with top-end bottles at top-end prices.
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