Ristorante Semplice is ‘simple’ in a way that only a chef who’s worked in triple-starred restaurants all over Europe could call simple. At his off-Bond Street gaff, Marco Torri (ex-Locanda Locatelli) eschews the frills of prissy cuisine in favour of ‘real, well done & nicely presented Italian recipes’. His reputation pretty much rests on his textbook risotto alla milanese, while his sorties into less-traditional fare result in appealingly original dishes such as buffalo ricotta & radicchio ravioli with langoustines & pine kernels, a tricksy ‘risotto alla grouse’, milk-fed veal with sautéed spelt & porcini, & multi-component desserts including chocolate fondant with grappa pannacotta & chocolate sorbet. The setting is low-key – again, hardly simple – with subtle lighting & warm, gold-textured walls for added interest. The set menu & plentiful Italian wines by the glass & carafe get the thumbs-up for client lunches.
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