Hélène Darroze & her ‘passionate’ culinary idiom now seem perfectly at home in this most English (& expensive) of Mayfair hotels, & her cooking continues to work wonders with artisan
ingredients. Meals begin with folds of exquisitely sliced Bayonne ham, before the seasons have their say: how about an evocative autumnal dish of cep ravioli with Basque ham, Hereford snails, lardo
di Colonnata, Périgord walnuts & persillade emulsion, or a porcine main involving a pan-roasted larded chop with Ibérico lomo, grilled confit belly, gratin dauphinois with roasted girolles,
& tarragon mustard jus – a huge, succulent meat feast built for sharing. There are playful touches, too; witness a savoury pudding of Spanish almonds, mascarpone cream, almond foam, & white
truffles. For all its wood panelling & tradition, the sumptuous, golden-hued dining room exudes intimacy, & the ‘sheer attention to detail is stunning’. In all, a ‘top deluxe experience’ –
entrancing & seductively gracious from start to finish.
WINE LIST: A classic list focused on the usual regions of France – definitely no risks taken here. Prices are high even by Mayfair standards, with top Bordelais crus subject to particularly
high margins. BEST BUY WHITE 2009 Camel Valley, Bacchus, England, £35. BEST BUY RED 2009 Domaine Chapoutier, Belleruche, Côtes du Rhône, Rhône Valley, France, £34.
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