Fifteen

Forget the Pudsey Bear cake sale – when it comes to eating for a good cause, Jamie Oliver’s flagship restaurant is where to be. Profits go towards his charitable foundation, & the kitchen is a training ground for under-qualified youngsters. What an education they get: the ‘black hats’ (professionals, the apprentices wear white) really know their stuff, sending out modern, vibrant Italian food from the open kitchen into the bright basement dining room. Burrata (a gooey mozzarella from Puglia) is served simply with tomatoes & basil to cut through its amazing creaminess; fettuccine arrives smothered in a rich pork ragù & doused in punchy Petrolo olive oil. Such quality doesn’t come cheap, but with the once-obligatory five-course tasting menu gone, you can pick & choose; antipasti & desserts are both strengths. Let one of the sommeliers (chilled out but clued up, like all the staff) guide you through the Italian-leaning wine list.
WINE LIST: A clear & well laid-out list – international, with a bias towards Italy. The introductions to the wine regions are well written & helpful. Prices are standard for London. BEST BUY WHITE 2009 Azienda Agricola Specogna, Friulano, Colli Orientali del Friuli, Italy, £37.50. BEST BUY RED 2008 Isole e Olena, Chianti Classico, Tuscany, Italy, £46.50.