Now that his original training-based crusade has celebrated a decade in rude health, Jamie Oliver has given Fifteen a grown-up makeover. The result is more New York than Old Street, with exposed
brick, rust-coloured banquettes, muted tones and super-low lighting replacing bright-pink paintwork and down-with-the-kids graffiti. The menu, too, has been recalibrated: gone are the hearty pastas
and rustic Italian dishes, usurped by an accomplished version of the dining concept du jour – seasonal sharing plates. Start with soft focaccia threaded with wild garlic, followed by
well-seasoned Dorset crab on wafer-thin rye crackers, gutsy rabbit and pork sausage with tangy red cabbage or a larger dish of spanking fresh lemon sole. For dessert, the sticky rhubarb and custard
éclair is patisserie perfection. Service is effervescent, the wine list is thorough without being overwhelming, and prices are more consumer-friendly than before.
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Jamie Oliver's rise from Essex kid cooking at his parents' pub to multi-millionaire TV chef, author, campaigner & populist foodie hero has been phenomenal. After graduating from Westminster College, our pukka boy went on to work at The River Café. Some years ago, he launched Fifteen, a not-for-profit restaurant staffed by underprivileged, previously unemployed youngsters & since then he has overseen the opening of sister restaurants in Amsterdam, Melbourne & Cornwall. Meanwhile, Oliver's sky-high media profile guarantees his presence in our kitchens & living rooms on a regular basis.