Those who find the Nobu brand ‘too namey’ should consider this ‘great alternative’ to Mayfair’s more famous Japanese siblings. Regulars treat Sumosan as their ‘local’, air-kissing their way around the subtly furnished grey & maroon dining room. They’re here for top-notch sushi & sashimi – tuna belly for purists, a T&T (tuna & truffle) roll for those whose tastes are less austere – as well as spot-on rock-shrimp tempura, seaweed salad with deeply flavoured goma (peanut) dressing, & succulent honey-mustard pork ribs. Elsewhere, luxury-laden experiments are ‘too rich’ for some palates – rather like the clientele, perhaps. Prices are geared to Mayfair’s hedge-fund set, so it’s probably no place for a catch-up with friends – unless your buddies happen to be staunch fans Nicole Kidman or Roman Abramovich. Service is on the ball, & the charming sommelier’s saké knowledge is immense.
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