Elegant, modern, restrained – three words that sum up this Kensington veteran, a sophisticate that seldom deviates from the well-tried canon of traditional Italian cuisine. Many dishes have a heavy Venetian influence & the pared-down menu features starters such as buffalo mozzarella with marinated aubergines or wild venison bresaola with celeriac & horseradish salad. Pastas & risottos are delivered ‘by the book’, while mains focus on accurately grilled hunks of meat or fish with tasteful accompaniments. Try tuna tartare with marinated baby spring onions & lemon dressing ahead of sea-bass fillet with braised fennel, or perhaps calf’s liver with bacon & fried courgettes. Bargain hunters should home in on the set lunch & early-evening menus (£14.90/£18.90 for two/three courses), while the resolutely Italian wine list offers a good spread of around 120 bins.
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