Should anybody need reminding why Gordon Ramsay became famous in the first place, a visit to Claridge’s ought to ram home the point. ‘A ravioli is not just a ravioli at this restaurant’, opines a
fan of the mega-chef’s spectacularly theatrical Mayfair dining room. No, the ravioli in question is a starter of silky, translucent pasta, lavishly filled with Thai-spiced lobster. Although the man
himself has charged lieutenant Steve Allen with the cheffing duties, the Ramsay register comes through in richly luxurious style: fillet of brill is paired with braised short rib of beef, swede
purée, girolles, salsify & shallots, while toasted lemon cake is treated to apples, toffee, mascarpone & chestnut sorbet. True, it’s not the most au courant of kitchens, but who needs that
when there’s mosaic of duck & foie gras, or sublime beef Wellington in the offing? The £30 set lunch is also strongly tipped. Service is smooth & assiduously professional.
WINE LIST: As befits Claridge’s, the focus here is on the classics. Fans of Champagne, Burgundy & Bordeaux will find plenty to choose from, but there is also a good variety of wines from
South America, Spain & Italy. The list also includes an excellent range of dessert wines & port. BEST BUY WHITE 2006 Guido Marsella, Fiano di Avellino, Campania, Italy, £45. BEST
BUY RED 2010 Tim Knappstein, Riposte, The Dagger Pinot Noir, South Australia, Australia, £40.
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